 Pashupatinath
Temple
The magnificent temple of Lord Pashupatinath lies around
5 kms north-east of Kathmandu, it is situated amidst many
other temples on the right bank of the river Bagmati (a
tributary of the holy river Ganges). It has had a long and
interesting history including being attacked and almost
destroyed by Sultan Samasuddin in the 14th century.
Pashupatinath
is the guardian spirit and the holiest of all Shiva shrines
in Nepal. Lord Shiva is known by many different names; Pashupati
is one. Pashu means living beings, Pati means master. In
other words Pashupati is the master of all living beings
of the universe. The first recorded history of some form
of worshipping site dates back to 753 A.D. where a stone
inscrition was erected by the ruler at the time Jayadev
11th. The temple was renovated by a mediaeval King Shivadeva
(1099-1126 AD). Further renovation was completed by queen
Gangadevi during the reign of Shiva Singh Malla (1578-1620
AD), the present temple dates from 1696. Pashapatinath stands
in the middle of an open courtyard built in a square shaped
pagoda style on single platform 23.6 meters above the ground,
gold gilt doors are found on all four sides of the temple.
In the centre of the temple, there is a three feet high
Shivalinga (fertility symbol) with four faces, all these
faces have different religious names and significance. The
face to the east is known as Tatpurusha, the one facing
south as Aghora, the faces looking west and north are known
by the names Sadhyojata and Vamadeva respectively with the
upper portion of this linga known as Ishan. These faces
are also defined as the symbol of four dharmas (the most
famous places of pilgrimage for Hindus) and four Vedas (sacred
books of Hindus). The images of Vishnu, Surya, Devi and
Ganesh are also placed in the sanctum of the temple.
Kathmandu, has a wealth of interesting historical sights
to visit, the valley contains seven world heritage sights.
Hanuman Dhoka:
- Kathmandu Durbar Square:
Probably the most interesting part of Kathmandu is the ancient
Hanuman Dhoka Palace and temple complex in the middle of
the old city which forms part of the Kathmandu Durbar square.
Built during the Malla period, the area consists of a number
of different monuments, the most outstanding of which are
as follows:
Image of Hanuman
Standing to the left of the main entrace to the Hanuman Dhoka
Palace is an image of Hanuman, the Hindu god who is always
depicted in the form of a monkey. The Mallas placed this image
of Hanuman at their palace gate both to protect the palace
and to bring them victory in war. The image is made of stone
but each year it is coated with a layer of red pigment made
by mixing oil and vermillion powder, over the years these
repeated layers of colour have distorted the face almost beyond
recognition. The idol is always clothed in red and is further
honoured by the golden umbrella placed over its head. This
particular image, and also the smaller one just beyond it
, were constructed in 1672 by King Pratap Malla.
Kumari Chowk
Built in 1757 by King Jaya Prakash Malla (1746-68) Kumari
Chowk is the home of the ‘Kumari’ or living goddess
who is considered to be an incarnation of the goddess Taleju.The
godess is chosen from an early age and will remain the Kumari
until the first signs of menstruation when she will give up
her role when another young girl will be chosen to follow
on. The Kumari Chowk is a three-storeyed courtyard lavishly
decorated with fine woodcarving. The third storey of the building
is especially attractive with its fine bay windows in which
the Kumari appears from time to time in the company of her
guardian priestess to watch over and be seen by her admirers.Taking
photographs of her is strictly forbidden.
The Golden Door
To the right of the image of Hanuman is the golden main door
of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace. It is guarded by a pair of stone
lions. Shiva sits on the lion to the right while Shakti sits
on the lioness to the left. These custodians date from Malla
times, the golden door itself is of a later period. The inscription
above the door states clearly that it was erected in 1810
during the reign of King Girbana Yuddha Bikram Shah. Such
an extravagance at that particular period of Nepal’s
history must surely have a story to explain it, and indeed
the story is found there in the inscription. Hundreds of outdated
copper plate inscriptions were gathered and sold, the return
from which bought the gold that was then pounded into sheets
and molded to the posts and panels of the door.
Above the golden door is a well formed large window opening
with three interesting images. The central piece shows Krishna
Bishwarupa, his multiple arms, the skulls and the terror image,
are all indicative of a strong Tantric influences. To the
left is a group of three figures, the central figure is clearly
of Krishna, very likely the other two are meant to represent
his two favorite consorts, Rukmini and Satya Bhama.On the
right of the Bishwarupa, two seated figures are found. One
of these figures, wearing royal robes and insignia is playing
an instrument. Seated near him in an attentive manner is a
woman who is well dressed and heavily ornamented. The face
of the King resembles very closely with the features found
on the known images of King Pratap Malla. It can therefore
be concluded that all the images date from Paratp Malla’s
time (1641-74).
Basantapur Chowk
At the south-east corner of the Nasal Chowk and the Hanuman
Dhoka is an exit through which one can pass through to enter
Basantpur Chowk. During the time of King Prithvi Narayan Shah
(1768-1846,) the Shah Kings moved from the old quarters formerly
occupied by the Malla Kings into this section of the palace.
While the woodcarvings in the central courtyard are an especially
outstanding feature, the whole building is of equal historic
value to all Nepalese.
The nine-storeyed
Palace of Prithvi Narayan Shah is known as Basantapur, within
the complex there are four towers Basantapur,Kirtipur, Lalitpur
and Bhaktapur. Apart form the Basantapur tower that dominates
the complex the other towers rise two storeys above the
courtyard. Both Lalitpur (Patan) and Bhaktapur were in the
past the two other main principalities within the valley.
Kirtipur was a separate hill fortress and small town which
is also situated within the valley.
There is a splendid
view from the windows of the Lalitpur tower, lavish gardens
were laid out directly below in the past which must have
enhanced its charm. The great temple of Taleju lies directly
north and can be clearly seen from the tower. The Kirtipur
Tower is laid with a copper roof of a most unusual design
and complexity, it represents an important piece of Nepalese
architecture. There is a clear view into the courtyard of
Nasal Chowk and also across the roofs to Degutaleju temple
and Jagannath temple in the Hanuman Dhoka area.
The Basantapur
Tower raises a full five storeys above the general level
of buildings in the whole palace and dwarfs the other three.
It is a mark of pride to the Nepalese that King Prithvi
Narayan Shah saw fit to build his Kathmandu Palace in the
Nepalese style, thus not only showing his appreciation for
the merits of the traditional architecture of the valley
but also establishing a firm example that was to continue
during the coming century.
The new Construction:
In the 19 century a large white building built in neoclassical
style was built onto the original Basantapur Palace it now
forms the newer wing of the complex.
Taleju Mandir
Built in 1564 by King Mahendra Malla, this is the most famous
of the three Taleju temples built by the Malla Kings; it is
situated in Trishul chowk and attached to the Hanuman Dhoka
Palace. The temple stands over 36.6 metres high and rests
on a twelve-stage pedestal. Its three roofs soar above the
rest of the Hanuman Dhoka complex, until very recent times
it was considered unlucky to build a house higher than this
temple. At the eighth stage of the pedestal, the steps broaden
out into a spacious platform on which a wall is mounted which
bars further movement into the temple.The temple is open to
the public once a year during the Dashain festival.
On the platform
just outside the wall there are twelve small temples, each
with a double roof and built to a traditional Nepalese style,
this is repeated inside the wall. Each temple has a spire,
one of the symbols of the attributes of Taleju Goddess.
On the south side where the main door is found there are
large stone images of men and beasts depicting powerful
protecting forces. There are two finely shaped bells on
both sides of the main door of the temple, one erected by
Pratap Malla in 1645 and one by Bhaskar Malla in 1714. They
are rung only when worship is offered to Goddess Taleju.
Kasta Manda
Known locally as Maru Sattal, this huge open temple has a
long history. Popular legend dictates that during King Laxmi
Narsingh’s reign Kalpa Brikshav who had difficulties
with the King at the time came to see the chariot festival
of Machchhendranath, where he was recognized by one of the
priests of Machchhendranath. The priest seized him and refused
to release him until he promised to give a tree from that
wood a rest house could be built, Kalpa Briksha made the promise
and was released. Four days later a huge Sal tree was delivered
, with the King’s permission, the Kastha Mandap (Kastha
/ wood Mandap / place for puja) was built from the wood of
this single tree; Kathmandu has derived its name from Kastha
Mandap.
The Great Bell
Without the great bell erected by King Rana Bahadur Shah in
1787, the palace area would somehow have been incomplete.
The great bells in the Patan Durbar Square and the Bhaktapur
Durbar Square were built 50 years earlier and date from 1736.
The bell is rung only when worship is being offered in Degutaleju.
The Great Drums
Located close to the great bell, two huge drums were made
during the reign of Girbana Yuddha Bikram Shah (1799-1816)
these are only played during the worship of Degutaleju. An
inscrption on copper plate informs the one who plays the drums
that a buffalo and a goat must be sacrificed for them twice
a year.
The Image of
Kala Bhairab
This huge stone
image of Bhairab represents Shiva in his destructive form
with its frightening expression symbolising death and destruction.
It is undated and was set in its present location by Pratap
Malla after it was found in a field north of the city. The
image was originally a single stone, however, a portion
on the upper right hand side was damaged and repaired by
the addition of another stone. The sun and moon to the left
and right of Bhairab and the heads of lions in the upper
portion also seem to have been later additions. Such large
images made of a single block of stone are very rare in
Nepal.
 Dharahara
Also known as Bhimsen Stambha (Tower) Dharahara is a 50.5
metre tower built by Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa in 1832.
Situated near by the General Post Office, the tower is one
of Kathmandu’s best-known monuments. From the top of
the tower there is a panoramic view of the whole Kathmandu
valley. It was opened to the public in 2004 and has recently
been renovated along with its immediate surroundings.
Keshar Library
Located near the Narayanhity Royal Palace the Keshar Library
has a huge and rare collection of books and manuscripts collected
during the 19th century. It also offers an opportunity to
have a glimpse inside one of Nepal’s several palaces.
It is open for the public during normal office hours.
Budhanikantha
(Sleeping Vishnu)
Situated below the Shivapuri hills, Buddhanikantha is eight
kilometres north of Kathmandu.In the centre of the temple
complex there is a huge statue of the Hindu God Vishnu reclining
on the coils of a cosmic serpent. The huge stone figure is
one of the masterpieces of stone sculptures of Lichchavi period
(3rd century A.D.-8th A.D.) and is belived to have been built
in the fifth century.
 Swayambhu
Stupa
Listed as a world heritage site, this is one of the world's
most famous Buddhist sites in Nepal. The stupa is reported
to be 2000 yrs old, its establishment is linked to the creation
of the Kathmandu valley. Legend dictates the valley was once
a huge lake, in the middle of the lake was a lotus flower
which produced a brilliant flame. People would travel from
miles around to worship its brightness. A Chinese disciple
Manjushri wishing to study the flame more closely slashed
the valley rim with his sword draining the waters to expose
the most beautiful landscape below. Chobhar gorge where the
valley waters still drain today represents the site of his
action. Swayambunath is reached by a steep stone flight of
steps and stands on a high hillock (77mtrs) it is built where
the lotus was originaly located, candles have burnt here for
many centuries in reverence to the original flame. Near the
beginning of the stairs there is a stone footprint, which
is said to be either that of the Buddha or of Manjushri.
On top of the
high central stupa on a golden colored square of the all
watchful eyes of the Buddha looking in all four directions.
The nose represents the Nepali number one (ek) and symbolizes
unity, above the two normal eyes is a third eye that symbolizes
the spiritualist powers of the Buddha. The base of the stupa
represents the four elements — earth, water, fire
and air.
At the top of
the stairs are two shikhara Indian style temples with two
stone lions and a huge dorje (Buddhist word for thunderbolt).
The right temple is the Pratapura temple, the one on the
left on the Anantapura temple. Dorje is always depicted
along with a series of bells. The thunderbolt symbolises
the male force ,the bell symbolises the female wisdom.
There are several
temples on top of the hill, one of these is a temple dedicated
to Hariti Devi, the goddess of smallpox and fertility (The
Newars know her as Ajima), she is worshiped to protect children
and is portrayed sucking the inside out of a corpse. It
is said that she was asked by the Buddha to stay near Buddhist
temples to prevent disease if she was worshipped. The symbols
of the five elements are located around the hilltop —
earth, water, fire, air and either of these. Behind the
Anantapura temple there there is Vasupura, the symbol of
the earth and Vayupura, the symbol of air. Northwest of
the platform is Agnipura, the symbol of fire and Nagpura,
the symbol of water. Shantipura, the symbol of sky (either)
is north of the platform. Near the north part of the platform,
there is a big statue of the Buddha and an ancient stone
inscription dating form 1372.
Bouddhnath
Lying some 6km
to the east of Kathmandu, this huge and ancient stupa is
one of the biggest in the world, and the largest in the
valley. A world heritage site, Boudhnath is believed to
have been built by using dew to mix the mortar as Kathmandu
was reeling under a severe drought during its construction.
The stupa looms 36 metres high and presents one of the most
fascinating specimens of stupa design. It is not known who
actually started the contruction although the legend goes
that a poor girl Ajima gave birth to four sons by four different
fathers the sons over the years gathered a lot of wealth,with
this wealth Jyajima decided she wanted to build a stupa.
She approached the King for permission, the King granted
her wish but insisted she build no larger than the size
of a buffolow. Ajima was clever, she cut the skin into thin
strips, laid them legnthways next to each,by doing so created
a large area of land to construct on. During her life the
stupa was erected upto the dumba level. After her death,
her four sons had completed above the bumba level in this
way the stupa was evenytually erected. Boudhanath is one
of the most sacred places for buddists a Tibetan community
has built up around it early morning are quite surreal with
many pilgrims visiting to worship, meditation and prayer.
There are one hundred and eight small niches all around
the stupa accommodation, the icons of the Buddha's conjoint
figures in erotic poses. Likewise at the bottom level, it
is surrounded by three prayer wheels embossed with the famous
mantra OM MANI PADME HUM fixed in more than hundred and
forty niches.
Kirtipur
Situated on a ridge 8-10km south-west of Kathmandu, this ancient
Newar township has many places of interest from old shrines,
temples, artistic old houses to people dressed in old traditional
costumes. Chilamchu stupa and the temple of Bagh Bhairav are
major attractions, the town is a natural hill fortress and
has has a proud and courageous history.
Dakshinkali
Dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali around 22km from the city
centre on the southern rim of the valley, it is a popular
place for worshippers. Tuesday and Saturday are most auspicious
days when the ritual of animal sacrifice is performed for
the deity.
On the way to
Dakshinkali about 9km southwest of Kathmandu lies Chobbar
Gorge. Lord Manjushree (mentioned above) in legend sliced
a portion of the hills to create Chobar where the waters
of the valley drian today. The temple at Adinath at the
top of the west part of the gorge is well worth visiting,
it also provides some fine views of the Nepal Himalaya.
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